A permanent pop-up? A revolving restaurant? Mary’s, the night-time alter ego of Highgate’s Mary Street Bakery, could be described in myriad ways but all you need to know is that it’s one of the hottest openings west of the Nullarbor. There’s something very pure about two young chefs cooking the food they enjoy eating (especially when what they enjoy eating includes the ever-so-lowbrow likes of crunchy fried chicken-skin wafers seasoned with Japanese chilli). Much of Simon Kruger and Nick Malanczak’s menu hums with Asian savour, from the textural thrills of Korean steak tartare enriched with smoked oyster cream to a reimagined peanut butter and jam toast studded with Japanese kyoho-grape jelly. Fun drink options (sake, boutique wine and house-infused soju) suit Mary’s good-times ethos wonderfully.