Just when you thought there were no niches left to fill in Western Australia’s overcrowded hospitality scene, up pops Fleur, a single-minded 50-seater in the middle of a busy city boozer.

With food from one of Perth’s finest chefs, Chase Weber, and a concept driven by Royal Hotel owner John Parker, Fleur is as stylish as it is accomplished. The kitchen applies contemporary techniques and presentation to classic Japanese ingredients in dishes such as heirloom tomato with shiro oil, whipped soy and kombu or Mandurah blue swimmer crab with dashi coral custard. Is it Japanese? No but the synthesis of flavours and modernist composition produces beguiling and flavoursome fare. The small dining room is moodily lit and Zen-like in its calming demeanour.

Fleur Restaurant, Perth, WA

The Royal Hotel, 531 Wellington Street, Perth; (08) 9322 1023; open Wednesday-Friday for lunch and Tuesday-Saturday for dinner.

SEE ALSO: The Expert-Approved Guide to Northbridge Restaurants

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