A 90-minute drive from Melbourne, the former gold-rush town offer rich pickings for thrifters, trail riders and coffee lovers.
For a taste of Castlemaine’s famed boho life, check in to the super-eco, rainwater-fed Riversdale Retreat in Chewton, 15 minutes’ drive from the centre of the town. Short-listed for a coveted World Architecture Festival Award, the house is scattered with Japanese elements, including a tatami area for quiet contemplation. Outside, there’s bushland and 'roos and a firepit begging to be lit.
But where to for dinner? Drive to Castlemaine’s The Mill dining precinct for woodfired pizzas at The Taproom, a brewery co-owned by ex-Hunters & Collectors drummer Doug Falconer. Stick around for live music after 8pm.
In need of a delicious pick- me-up? On your way to Harcourt’s mountain-bike trails, swing past Johnny Baker’s Drive-In patisserie where tattooed, bearded bakers turn out exquisite treats and cracking pies. Order the frankfurt croissant, made with Belgian butter and a snag from Castlemaine’s own fleischermeister, Ralf Fink.
The 11 bike trails at La Larr Ba Gauwa Park are prized for their bush views. The 2.3-kilometre Wanyarra track is ideal for first-timers (you can hire gear at the Castlemaine Visitor Information Centre)
Afterwards, tuck into a classic Wiener schnitzel at The Mill’s Das Kaffeehaus. Co-owner Elna Schaerf-Trauner has re-created the Viennese coffee houses of her youth, where intellectuals would gather to talk politics.
Before you leave The Mill, call into Castlemaine Vintage Bazaar, a store the size of four basketball courts, brimming with well-travelled luggage, kitschy tea towels and all things macramé.
For dinner, take a seat by the fire at The Railway Hotel and order the porterhouse steak with hand-cut chips and garlic butter. With its wooden bar, velvet curtains and pool table, this English-style pub is beloved by locals (to blend in, be sure to pronounce the “castle” in Castlemaine like “hassle”).
If the weather is playing along, take breakfast on the rooftop at the cheery Togs Cafe, housed in old goldminers’ cottages on the town’s main drag. From there, it’s a five- minute drive to the Shades of Gray gallery where sculptors Peter and Chelly Gray work magic with reclaimed metal (in the ’90s, their pieces were shown at New York’s Guggenheim Museum). It’s open on weekends in November and December.
This story was originally published 27 September, 2018 and has been updated.