How to Spend a Weekend in Victoria’s Castlemaine

Das Kaffehaus

A 90-minute drive from Melbourne, the former gold-rush town offer rich pickings for thrifters, trail riders and coffee lovers.


Castlemaine fire station

For a taste of Castlemaine’s famed boho life, check in 
to the super-eco, rainwater-fed Riversdale Retreat in Chewton, 15 minutes’ drive from the centre of the town. Short-listed for a coveted World Architecture Festival Award, the house is scattered with Japanese elements, including a tatami area for quiet contemplation. Outside, there’s bushland and 'roos and a firepit begging to be lit.

But where to for dinner? Drive to Castlemaine’s The Mill dining precinct for woodfired pizzas at The Taproom, a brewery co-owned by ex-Hunters & Collectors drummer Doug Falconer. 


Fruit tart at Johnny Baker's Drive-In patisserie

In need of a delicious pick-
me-up? On your way to Harcourt’s mountain-bike trails, swing past Johnny Baker’s Drive-In patisserie  where tattooed, bearded bakers turn out exquisite treats and cracking pies. Order the frankfurt croissant, made with Belgian butter and a snag from Castlemaine’s own fleischermeister, Ralf Fink. 

The 11 bike trails at La Larr Ba Gauwa Park are prized for their bush views. The 2.3-kilometre Wanyarra track is ideal for first-timers (you can hire gear at the Castlemaine Visitor Information Centre)

Afterwards, tuck into a classic Wiener schnitzel at The Mill’s 
Das Kaffeehaus. Co-owner Elna Schaerf-Trauner has re-created the Viennese coffee houses of her youth, where intellectuals would gather to talk politics.

Before you leave The Mill, 
call into Castlemaine Vintage Bazaar, a store the size of four basketball courts, brimming with well-travelled luggage, kitschy tea towels and all things macramé. 

For dinner, take a seat by the fire at The Railway Hotel  and order the porterhouse steak with hand-cut chips and garlic butter. With its wooden bar, velvet curtains and pool table, 
this English-style pub is beloved 
by locals (to blend in, be sure 
to pronounce the “castle” in Castlemaine like “hassle”). 

This story was originally published in 2018 and has been updated. 

SEE ALSO: A Rooftop Pool Club is Coming to Melbourne


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