Pan-Asian food meets its fun-filled future at Sunda, where chef Khanh Nguyen takes traditional Malaysian, Indonesian and Vietnamese dishes, gives them a modern shake then adds Australian native ingredients for good measure.
What could be a confusing mess is a triumph of imagination, thanks to the buttery-perfect roti with improbable (and improbably good) Vegemite-spiked curry and beef rendang buns with fiery roasted sambal and cooling pickled radish. There’s also a sublime take on otak-otak, the Malaysian grilled fishcake – reimagined here as a creamy parfait dotted with finger lime, perfect for scooping up with rugged rice cakes.
Housed in a city laneway haunt where the red-brick
walls are lined with scaffolding (a bold design feature rather than structural necessity,
we’re assured), Sunda tears asunder the clichés about
Atmosphere: Buzzy cosy industrial vibes
Best for: Upscale adventurous dining
Cuisine: Modern South East Asian
Standout dish: Roti with Vegemite infused curry dipping sauce
Open: lunch: friday, 12pm – 3pm | dinner: tuesday to thursday, 6pm – late
Address: 18 Punch Lane, Melbourne
Phone number: (03) 9654 8190