Smith & Daughters – Restaurant Review
Don’t be fooled by the menu. Despite words such as “meatballs”, “prosciutto” and “parmesan” being thrown about, everything that leaves the kitchen at this rocking joint is entirely plant-based. Queen of Melbourne’s vegan scene, owner-chef Shannon Martinez is a whiz at devising her own secret recipes that mimic meat while keeping their ethical credentials intact. Need convincing? Dive into a hearty plate of pasta with vodka Napoli and “meatballs” or a texturally sound “carpaccio” loaded with horseradish cream, fried capers and perfectly salty-sour “parmesan”. The Italian menu isn’t completely fixated on the faux: garlicky chickpeas on soft polenta is a classic comfort dish. For a chance to enjoy the surprisingly broad horizons of plant-centred dining, there’s no better.
175 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy; (03) 9939 3293; open Saturday-Sunday for lunch and Tuesday-Sunday for dinner
Image credit: Lauren Bamford
