Millennial-pink walls and peacock-blue velvet banquettes. Bollywood film projections and a 1980s soundtrack. Fine wines and a self-serve fridge full of craft beer. Chef Jessi Singh’s triumphant return to Melbourne after taking a bite out of the Big Apple is part days of the Raj, part dive bar – and it works. Packing the visual exuberance of a Mumbai wedding into its jewellery-box fit-out, Daughter In Law also reinforces the fun factor with the food. See the gol gappa: these featherweight puffs of semolina crunch filled with an ambrosial liquid of mint, tamarind and yoghurt demand you eat them in a single bite or suffer the dry-cleaning consequences. And if you’re simply craving a rich, aromatic dhal, this is the place. Finish with a Subcontinental cocktail at the bar and toast the newest member of this city’s Indian family.

37 Little Bourke Street, Melbourne; (03) 9242 0814; open MondayFriday for lunch and seven days for dinner.

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