From the caviar (you can choose from a whole tin of premium roe or a single “bump” from a mother-of-pearl spoon) to dry-aged wood-grilled duck served with apple and cabbage, this sumptuous CBD spot invites guests to relax into culinary classicism. The French-with-a-twist menu leans into owner chef Scott Pickett’s Old World technique and modern-Australian sensibility – see the Hervey Bay scallop with mustard fruit and finger lime – in a dark, moody and magnificent space.

430 Little Collins Street; (03) 9089 7598

Melbourne’s hottest restaurant – quite literally if you count the charcoal chunks dedicated chefs shift under the grill on an hourly basis – is a delicious journey through Thailand’s varied and ever-flavourful cuisine.  Perfuming the air of the heritage Pacific House with the pungent urgency of herbs, fish sauce and delicious char, the open, bronze-tinged kitchen pumps out zingy trout salads, fiery curries and a handful of must-order desserts (including a chocolate brownie spiked with mandarin curd ice cream).  It’s all sandwiched between Her Rooftop, an art-strewn, open air bar and dining space above and, one level down, Music Room, a listening space that immerses guests in the sounds of a vinyl collection of mammoth proportions (some 3000 records spin here, to be exact).

125 Flinders Lane; (03) 8663 2000

Decked out in marble and brass, this paean to decadence from restaurateur Andrew McConnell is a place to indulge in topnotch seafood delivered on silver platters and herb-and-butter-drizzled wood-grilled lobster. Or take the tradies’ entrance for a bar menu that delivers supreme snackage, such as bresaola-topped gnocco fritto puffs oozing with parmesan cream. Wherever you sit, it’s one helluva ride.

33 Russell Street; (03) 9277 9777

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A red-carpeted shrine to Cantonese food, Flower Drum deserves its reputation as the country’s finest Chinese restaurant. The lengthy menu can present an exquisite form of torture so newcomers should stick to the dishes on which this stellar fine-diner’s reputation has been forged. One taste of the Peking duck or quail sang choi bao, jazzed up with the hit of Chinese sausage, will reveal why regulars like Neil Perry sing its praises. 

17 Market Lane; (03) 9662 3655

The city’s most lavish dining room has been the stage-set for Guy Grossi’s command of the Italian canon for over 20 years. His boar-filled sopressini and suckling pig are as much a part of Melbourne’s fabric as the National Trust-classified Florentine murals on the walls, justifying the splash-out splendour of the three-course menu. The wine list follows suit with Italian varietals grown both there and here, all delivered by a polished crew of charming waiters.

80 Bourke Street; (03) 9662 1811

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This fire-fuelled CBD restaurant is a love letter to the state  written in food, with a direct line to Victoria’s food bowl via owner-chef (and Gippy ambassador) Alejandro Saravia. A sleek fit-out and terrace overlooking the Yarra River ensures it’s no country mouse, while dishes such as charry-edged baked alpine trout finished with celeriac and Skipton smoked eel and kohlrabi make a compelling case for the menu’s studious regionality. 

Ground Floor, Yarra Building (riverside), Federation Square

The sight of chefs toiling at the charcoal grill is an enticing curtain-raiser to Dave Verheul’s smart flame-licked menu at this hotspot. A masterclass in the possibilities of four ingredients and imagination: the brussels sprouts slick with buttermilk, parsley, salted mandarin elevates the humble brassica into top tier territory , while the snapper carpaccio with walnut, yoghurt and green fig  sheds new light on this city’s current crudo obsession. Add a great list of natural wines and you’ve got the very model of a modern Melbourne restaurant.

122 Russell Street; 0455 122 121

Somewhere between a pasta bar and a wine bar, this is a local go-to for the pure comfort of carbs backed by an Italian-focused list showcasing lesser-known varietals. All eyes are on the pasta dishes – squid ink tagliolini with squid  and bottarga, or rigatoni laced with Sher Wagyu beef and confit chilli – but the support acts demand attention too, whether that’s Otway pork with sorrel  or the ultra-boozy Tipomisù.

361 Little Bourke Street; (03) 9942 3946

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The dream team of designer Chris Connell and super-chef Karen Martini makes this restaurant at the Australian Centre for the Moving Image a hero indeed. The smart-casual menu serves up a comforting Mediterranean whirl, whether it’s vitello tonnato or porcini ravioli with burnt butter and truffle. Or just drop by for a cocktail in the city’s Fed Square heart.

ACMI, Federation Square; (03) 9964 2819

Rinaldo Di Stasio’s arty city outpost roars with Italian brio but aperitivo hour is celebrated in the sophisticated Roman style. Take a seat at the marble bar for a Negroni and a plate of addictively salty anchovies and sage leaves in a lacy batter, or take advantage of the full menu running from late morning to late night and sink further into Città’s command of Italian fine dining.

45 Spring Street, Melbourne; (03) 9070 1177

Chef Victor Liong calls it “cheeky Chinese”: a new-style that takes its cues from the Cantonese tradition but heads down its own path. Look no further than his steamed Glacier 51 toothfish with organic tofu and spring onion oil. . Luxe ingredients such as 9-score wagyu or a dessert of jasmine ice cream with warm cocoa caramel  ballast the tasting menu served in this handsome warehouse space just off Flinders Lane, and a crowd-pleasing wine list keeps pace.

11-15 Duckboard Place, Melbourne; (03) 9077 6261

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Shane Delia’s acclaimed Middle Eastern fine diner might be housed in a dark and opulent sub-basement but it boasts food and service cruising at high altitude. A range of tasting menus offers a giddy parade of rustic-refined dishes, from Arak pickled cucumber to 12-hour lamb roasted shoulder with za’atar. . A strong selection of vegan dishes makes it a special occasion hotspot for the plant-based crowd.

21 Bond Street, Melbourne; (03) 9629 5900

A thrilling marriage of local produce and experimental techniques imported from Northern Europe, Freyja electrifies with its simplicity. It’s all very deceptive (and delicious), especially the Beetroot made zingy with a zesty pistachio crunch and rich, juicy cherry and Duck made herbaceous with lavender, coriander and salty pancetta. Digging into these dishes, while peeping through Gothic 1880s windows, is a transportive dining experience.

477 Collins Street; (03) 8688 7141 

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Aru embraces the big flavours and relaxed approach of South-East Asian family feasting. But that’s not all — this refined eatery also serves a significant  curve ball in the use of  native Australian ingredients and a palpable sense of fun to proceedings, as witnessed in the pâté en croûte, an impeccable mash-up with the flavours of a Vietnamese banh mi that includes jelly made from Maggi seasoning.

268 Little Collins Street, Melbourne; (03) 9939 8113

A New York-style French bistro in a Melbourne basement? Fear not; you’ll get your bearings the minute you sit down to a three-sip mini-martini and a double cheeseburger oozing with bordelaise sauce. This glamorous late-night haunt is fuelled by craft cocktails (as you’d expect from the owners of The Everleigh and Heartbreaker) and Francophile classics, from escargot in Pernod butter to duck frites Unsurprisingly, it’s a place that all but demands you dress to impress.

Basement, 111 Lonsdale St, Melbourne; (03) 9650 0088

How to Explore Melbourne Like a Local