Marco Furlan moved from running the floor to overseeing the kitchen in a number of restaurants, which he continues to do here with as much style and grace.
Drawing on his Marches-Toscane background, his classic dishes from these regions have Italian sons taking their mothers here for dinner. The vitello tonnato, which is poached rare in duck stock and served with tuna mayonnaise, is exemplary, as is the saltimbocca – thinly sliced veal layered with prosciutto. Not on the menu but often available (and the dish that should make Furlan famous) is the baked duck risotto, the rice cooked in duck stock with button Swiss brown mushrooms and pistachio nuts.
Something for dessert? Save space for the lemon curd tart. The wine list is brief but to the point and well priced.
Open Monday-Friday for breakfast and lunch and Tuesday-Saturday for dinner
Best for: Impressive Italian food
Stand-out dish: Vitello tonnato
Address: 19 Gilles Street, Adelaide
Phone number: (08) 8212 3535
Images: Liam West/Lightly Salted