Famous in Japan for its broodingly dark and mysterious charred miso kogashi ramen, Gogyo has taken Sydney by storm – so much so, it’s difficult to get a seat (make sure you book).

This izakaya-style Japanese eatery is bursting with enthusiastic diners plumbing the depths of a bevy of soupy sensations, bending the arm at the bar or tucking into some seriously good snacks at the kitchen counter. There’s an amazing array of ramen dishes, from the silky pork tonkotsu with bamboo shoots and pork belly to the spicy shoyu chicken broth with pork mince, coriander and tomato or the soba porcini with portobello tempura.

But the signature dish is worth seeking out – the chef deliberately burns miso in boiling lard to blacken the broth, delivering a complex, rich soup accompanied by cabbage, chashu pork belly and egg. But it’s not all ramen snacks such as the karaage chicken, kingfish sashimi and nasu dengaku (miso-glazed eggplant) are just as good.

Open seven days for lunch and dinner

Book at Gogyo

Feeling hungry?

Best for: Comfort food
Stand-out dish: Blackened miso soup
Fab factor: The ramen is made from a 24-year-old recipe
Address: 52-54 Albion Street, Surry Hills
Phone number: (02) 9212 0003  

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