The blue swimmer crab soufflé at Bistro Mosman is the sort of dish you go back to a restaurant for again and again. Laden with cheese and infused with the flavour of the ocean, it’s a perfectly risen dome of fluffy deliciousness, served in a bowl of rich crab bisque.
The Tilley & Wills Hotels group has recently taken over this favourite North Shore restaurant, re-christening it from “Bistro Moncur Mosman” to simply “Bistro Mosman”. And Jon Trouillet (ex Jules Vernes in Paris), who’s been at the helm since 2016, is clearly having a lot of fun in the kitchen, giving timeless classics inventive twists.
The crab entrée in question – a variation of the restaurant’s French onion soufflé – is one example. The Ma Pavlorine dessert (pictured above) is another. Featuring fresh berries, raspberry sorbet and Chantilly cream in a delicate sphere of meringue, it gives new meaning to the classic pav.
The show between the entrée and the dessert is ably supported by stellar main courses, such as seared duck breasts in blood orange sauce and lamb cutlets with ratatouille. The service is friendly and efficient, while the wine list with excellent French and local varietals is a crowd-pleaser.
And the light-filled space is just as impressive – high ceilings, big windows and a delicate palette, dominated by olive and pale pistachio tones. Book a table.
Atmosphere: Sophisticated and refined with a hint of old-school glamour
Best for: Intimate, romantic dinners
Standout dish: Blue swimmer crab soufflé
Open: Thursday-Sunday for lunch and Tuesday-Saturday for dinner
Address: 76 Middle Head Road, Mosman
Phone number: (02) 8287 2968