World Expeditions' Transcaucasian Trail Hike Armenia Trip Review

Rich polyphonic chanting reverberates off metre-thick stone walls as tendrils of incense smoke curl upwards through the beams of light that penetrate the darkness. A mixture of frankincense and sandalwood lingers in the air. Armenia was the first nation in the world to convert to Christianity so it’s fitting the masses here are a full sensory experience.

Monasteries, churches and chapels are ubiquitous in this mountainous country, from the centres of cities to dramatic hilltops that only eagles and the most determined pilgrims can reach. Since 2016, they’ve been joined by hikers on the North-South Transcaucasian Trail, a 1500-kilometre route connecting Armenia with its neighbour, Georgia.

Sitting in the shadow of snow-capped Mount Ararat (above), Armenia’s capital, Yerevan, is the starting point for World Expeditions’ Transcaucasian Trail Hike Armenia trip, which takes you to some of the most scenic sections. Over eight days our group of nine follows paths lined with pale-blue cornflowers and aromatic meadowsweet. We cool off in the bracing waters of Lake Sevan and walk through fields studded with khachkar (cross stones) that are covered in intricate designs stained maroon with cochineal.

The ruins of a 10th-century church proves an excellent spot for lunch while a visit to an 800-year-old monastery gives a glimpse into buildings made of handsome pink tuff and decorated with carvings so fine they look like lace embedded in the stone.

Hosts in the guesthouses and homestays where we stop for the night greet us with dried persimmons and sweet peach and mint cordial. At dinner, tables are spread with freshly baked lavash, sorrel salad, thick madzoon yogurt and juicy dolma (stuffed vine leaves), all washed down with oghi, a pear brandy so potent it could fuel the Ladas parked out front. “Every village makes this differently so it’s hard to know how strong it is,” says our guide before taking a sip and offering an educated guess. “This is maybe 60 per cent alcohol but it’s very good. Oghi should be strong – like the Armenian people.”