Unless you are lucky enough to be invited to a Balinese ceremony, tasting authentic Balinese village food can be an oddly elusive experience. The family-run Kayun Restaurant, with its charming thatched huts set around a garden, is the real deal. You won’t find a fancy dining experience but you will gain a rare insight into the relationship between food and the divine, with traditionally prepared dishes laced with symbolism and ritual significance.

Presented ceremonial-style, the nasi saraswati has eight small dishes woven from banana leaf. Each is an offering, paying tribute to the ocean, the river, trees, earth and sky, and includes turmeric rice, spicy chicken, river shrimp, grated coconut and fiery sambal. Make sure to try the homemade brem (rice wine) and the loloh – traditional health tonics. You can also wander through the Bidadari Gallery at the front of the restaurant, which has a display of giant wooden sculptures, intricately carved from single tree trunks.  


Mas is in the hilly region of Gianyar and neighbours the town of Ubud. Famed across Indonesia for its woodwork, this is a good place to look for carvings and beautiful handmade furniture.

Kayun Restaurant & Lounge | Jalan Raya Mas No. 47, Ubud 
+62 361 218 0708

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