Located down by the river, this is Bali’s biggest market and sprawls over four floors, each heaving with stalls. It doesn’t look like much from the outside but this is the real deal; that is, it isn’t a tourist market. The ground floor is the place to try tasty Balinese snack foods like sate lilit (fish skewered on lemongrass stalks and grilled) and here you will see women sitting in front of baskets piled high with exotic fruit and vegetables. On the upper floors you will find aromatic spices, cookware, Balinese ceremonial items and costumes, hand-printed batiks and a smattering of handicraft items at a fraction of the cost you would pay in a shop in Seminyak. Don’t forget to haggle – a good starting point is half of their first price.
Denpasar is the seething capital city of Bali. Apart from the markets you can take a wander through Puputan Square, a shaded park that’s a central gathering spot for locals. The Bali Museum contains some fascinating artefacts and adjoins the magnificent Pura Agung Jagatnatha temple.